Monthly Archives: May 2007

Anti-formula

Jeanette is tired, “It is a lonely life waiting for guests,” she says, dragging on a long cigarette. “They come, and then they are off to the centre, to the old town. It is empty here for long hours.” She’s … Continue reading

Posted in Boulogne | Leave a comment

Escape From Clooney

I used to want to write a film titled, Escape From Sting: the Whole World is My Prison. Sting was everywhere a few years ago. Everywhere. But mostly in elevators. Now I’ve found the sequel: Escape from Clooney.

Posted in Boulogne, Montreuil-sur-mer | Leave a comment

Ulysses in Search of an Apple

This is a walking trip; much more than I realized. I am in the footsteps of Thomas Coryat, and oh, my, were his big. I think he was on horseback more than he lets on. But for me, with a … Continue reading

Posted in Montreuil-sur-mer | Leave a comment

Hills

Boulogne’s hilly old town auditions for the remake of Don’t Look Now In the old town high above the shopping malls of Boulogne I catch the first whiff of Tom Coryat; a smell that eluded me in Calais – as … Continue reading

Posted in Boulogne | Leave a comment

The Taste for Others’ History

In the upstairs rooms of Calais’ Museé des Beaux Art, under the general title of Les Liaisons Heureuses there are pieces by Joseph Beuys, Picasso, and Andy Warhol. But I am taken with a work by Annette Messager. A “History … Continue reading

Posted in Boulogne | Leave a comment

Leaving Calais faster and slower than Tom

Self Portrait at the Station Feeling Bad Leaving Calais early but sick – one of those sweating ache-ridden fevers that keeps you one quarter awake all night – I’m struck that 399 years ago today Coryat walked 25 miles to … Continue reading

Posted in Calais | Leave a comment

Learning what to forget

In his marvelous – there will be a lot of marvelouses during this journey – Shakespeare and the Origins of English, Professor Neil Rhodes writes: “Watching television has long assumed the role that novel-reading did in the early nineteenth century, … Continue reading

Posted in Calais | 1 Comment

Gigi: roots and routes

Gigi is from Cavaillon, a town between Avignon and Aix-en-Provence in the South of France. She is in Calais for three days working in the tourist office, researching tourists’ responses to the town in order to improve facilities back home, … Continue reading

Posted in Calais | 2 Comments

One of those wet nirvana moments

Posted in Calais | Leave a comment

Those Hamilton Women

Not so far from the Richlieu park, right into a side street – on the corner of Rue Jean de Verne and the Rue Francais, is a plaque commemorating the death place of Emma Hamilton in 1815. “That” Hamilton woman: … Continue reading

Posted in Calais | Leave a comment