Monthly Archives: August 2010

I Belong to the Beat Generation

Beat has a theory about travel. Beat is a winning Swiss-German combination of Eric Cantona, the French footballer turned actor-intellectual, Falstaff, and Anthony Lane, the New Yorker film critic. He runs a bar, the Andorra, named after the play of … Continue reading

Posted in Max Frisch, Thomas Coryat, To Be or Not to Be, Zurich | Leave a comment

Across the Wallensee for a Zurich Reunion

Bad Ragaz is utterly still, deader than ever, at 6.30am. There’s nothing open for water or buns, and the hotel I’m staying in will no doubt put out a search party for Bambi, or anyone else involved with its miraculously … Continue reading

Posted in Bad Ragaz, Thomas Coryat, Walenstadt, Zurich | Leave a comment

Bambi in Bad Ragaz; Heidi everywhere

A 6am start in Chur to revisit the Cathedral and just try and imagine. By seven school kids are passing in clumps and couples and solitary singles. Does Swiss school begin at 8? The walking out of a town is … Continue reading

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New Mobile, New Chur, New Labour

Author’s note. The photographs are all on my Facebook pages, so to see them you’ll have to visit. I am half way through a panegyric to the wonders of Swiss nature walking the first few miles from Ems towards Chur. … Continue reading

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@ The Big Easy, aka Der Einfache Grosse

Perhaps it is my age but the Sunday afternoon version of Chur’s festival is far more to my taste. The alleyways and courtyards of the old town echo to a grosser easy of old Americana tunes, Johnny B Goode, Teddy … Continue reading

Posted in Alien, Chur, Durer, IPAD, James I, Oviva, Shakespeare, Thomas Coryat | Leave a comment

Shakespeare in Splugen, exclusive

The payback is the next day. Unlike Tom I’m not in training. Everything aches, I walk like John Wayne after a three day ride. Brokeback Splugen. There is another gardening centre past the railway station at Thusis, which makes three … Continue reading

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The Splugen: from Sophie Marceau through Wesley Schneider to Billy Idol, and back

In the only Thusis bar with hints of, er, modernity, it is small, very dark and chalet-ish inside. The outside terrace, part glassed, looks out on to the rail tracks. Which is slightly unfair as the mountain view is splendid. … Continue reading

Posted in 'Splungen, Thomas Coryat, Thusis | Leave a comment

Thusis and Learning to slow down

Three years ago my progress was pretty stately. Osyters in Whitsable, a night in my father’s cottage near Dover, a Channel crossing; Calais in the rain. This morning was a blur of home-printed plane tickets, no check in, an Orange … Continue reading

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My Tool for this Trip

All this and more. It better bloody work.

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Some thoughts on returning to Tom Coryat’s Walk

Three and half years ago when I started this recreation, this walk across Europe, I had a laptop, a portable hard drive, and a lot of material typed in the British Library. Plus my Merrells. Now I have an IPad. … Continue reading

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