Monthly Archives: September 2010

Mainz Kind a Town

An easy walk out of Oppenheim, and a sense that up there on the hill, the old clerics did their job further afield. They could see so far. The Rhine is not elusive today, but still I walk an inlet, … Continue reading

Posted in Gutenberg, Mainz | Leave a comment

More Sagas

A early sunny start in Worms takes me to the river, a statue of Hagen throwing the treasure of the Niebelungen into the Rhine, and the vineyards that brought us Liebfraumilch. A Proustian moment – not. Too many 1970s allusions … Continue reading

Posted in Facebook, Martin Luther, Niebelungen, Oppenheim, Worms | Leave a comment

My Diet in Worms

Frankenthal’s cloudy centre is drinking beer at 9.30, but it is Sunday. The weekend cyclists soon appear as I walk towards the Rhine, through a subdued suburbia close to the autobahn. It is a morning of sports, first the teenage … Continue reading

Posted in Frankenthal, Martin Luther, Niebelungen, Worms | Leave a comment

A short little palimpsest of Speyer

Ever since I saw and became obsessed with the work of the German conceptual artist, Anselm Kiefer, I’ve wanted to see – and walk – and, inevitably, photograph, haphazardly, some of the rhineland landscapes that appear to have influenced his … Continue reading

Posted in Anselm Kiefer, Cabbala, Frankenthal, Jewish mysticism, Speyer | Leave a comment

Rolling on a – wrong – river. To Speyer, Spira as was

Another Heidelberg philosphe weg, my fourth, down to the new bridge, past the Irish bar that Angela said was good, but I don’t do Irish bars unless they are in Ireland. Then a joyous pilgrimage down the Neckar river, as … Continue reading

Posted in Heidelberg, Romanesque, Romans, Sarkozy, Schwetzinger, Speyer | Leave a comment

Philosphies of Life

Lazlo runs a brand new vinyl store in the clubby street; the late night old town, about half a hiccough from my bridge-side Heidelberg hotel. In his stylish shop window there’s a copy of the soundtrack to Stanley Donen’s European … Continue reading

Posted in Heidelberg | Leave a comment

Heidelberg: philosophy compulsory

My favourite moment of the Baden-Baden Grayson Perry incident happens without him, back at the Capuchin-Radisson reception desk. An elderly German couple were, they explain, sitting behind me in the Travel Pussy cafe. They want to know, pretty simply – … Continue reading

Posted in Arendt, Goethe, Grayson Perry, Heidelberg, Holderlin, Martin Luther, Thomas Coryat | Leave a comment